10-11-2000
Genova, Fitzcarraldo
 
Genova was best. Genova was the best city. It was the most fascinating city, the food was best (and all the food we had, all the food everywhere was better than any food anywhere), I fell in love, we played well, had fun, stayed up late, got drunk, had adventures! Had fun! Stayed in a hotel with greased floors and bare bulbs and crazy people there! Got lost, got lost over and over. I bought a winter coat! A coat I like alot! The club was good, the people at the club were great, there were fans, there was a guy there who owned all our records! Nuts! I don't even own all our records. (Have I said that before?) The bartender made this fantastic drink, I don't remember what it was. Delicious. Delicious! I had a bunch of 'em.

The drive to Genova goes down the windiest roads and the steepest hills. The rain was blasting into us, smacking the van around with its fat windy fingers. Shit! I thought we were going to fall off the road. We finally got to eat at an Auto-grill, Matt and Ago had been talking about Auto-grill for days and though by the end of the tour we'd become very used to Auto-grill the first stop was exciting. The food was still good, this place is really just a Stuckey's or a Howard Johnson's or even, it's even more like the Burger King at the truck stop, and it's good! The food's good. The wine is even good! THIS IS MAKING ME MAD! Anyway, we ate and then drove down the windiest roads, some of them very lovely, some of them frightening though, and got to Genova and found a perfect parking space.

The old town of Genova is all tiny roads, beautiful tiny and interlaced roads. We walked and walked...



Andy and Ago in Genova

...and we ate so much, we ate so much gnocchi with pesto, just perfect food, perfect! And we drank wine and ate so much I could've died. Every meal on this trip I ate so much I could've died. It was always too much but always a pleasure, there was always some way to stuff more in, and all the food was so good it was acceptable. We ate in a small family restaurant, a neighborhood restaurant. Agostino said it was the kind of place that has to be good, with no advertisement and no tourists coming in, it has to serve great food or the locals won't come by. I won't say more. It was very good.

The show was the first so far that felt right. We were playing on unusual instruments, I can't remember all of it - every night was an adventure but for the most parts the stuff we played on was very good. Tonight started out with troubles but everything ended up sounding good, and we were pleased with the crowd and they seemed pleased with us, and we played and it was going well... and the cops showed up! The cops! That's right, the cops! Apparently the streets in Genova are so narrow, and the buildings so high, that any loud sounds can be heard from one side of town to the other - so we got shut down.

Agostino claimed it was okay, he said it was a good show and that it didn't seem so short. He said it was good that we didn't stick around and bore people. And of course we were happy because now we could belly up to the bar, which we did, and we stayed there until very late at night. And I was standing by the bar when I fell in love, I really did! I mean, it's easier to fall in love when you're in Italy and there are fewer short-term consequences, but I was standing there and I'd noticed her earlier, she was very pretty and she looked at me and I looked and she walked up and said "hi." What was I supposed to do? I melted! And I bought her drinks and I drank and after a while I was drunk and she was sort of drunk, and maybe I was being kind of funny, I was drunk enough to think I was funny, I was bothering strangers and making fun of other drunks, and we were having fun and... and... and she went home, she rode home on her scooter. Maybe I was foolish but I let her go.

It was all a good feeling. We left very late and went to this wreck of a hotel, Andy and Matt and I stayed on the 4th floor I think it was in a room absolutely covered in grease! Where the fuck did grease come from? None of us could figure it. I immediately flung open one of the big old windows - and what a delight! The room was surrounded by scaffolding! I crawled out, drunk and stupid, and Matt crawled out after me. We were about 60 feet up, and we crawled onto someone's deck, surrounded by roses etc., and walked, and I think I smoked a cigarette, and then we crawled back onto the scaffolding and across onto another rooftop and crawled in through an open doorway! The building was being rebuilt and we walked down to the next floor below, listening to the plumbing hiss, and then crawled out another window onto another scaffolding - and we looked over, and a skeletal face was staring out of a window right across from us! A skinny old woman in a robe was in her kitchen, lit bright by a bare bulb, staring right at us! We shit our pants! Matt said we should beat it back to the room, and I agreed. We scampered back upstairs, out the door, across the roof, onto the scaffolding, and back into the window onto the greasy floor, hysterical and still drunk but vibrant now.

I went to sleep, and I was happy.


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